The Best Equipment For Walking Your Fearful Dog

Safety on walks, including the best equipment to keep your XO Dog safe and secure, is a concern for everyone who lives with a fearful dog. My rule of thumb is to have two points of connection anytime you and your furry friend venture forth. This “belt and suspender” approach ensures that if one piece of equipment fails, you and your dog are still attached via the second point of attachment.

Harness and Martingale Collar

I’ll start off by recommending a well-fitted harness as the main point of connection, with a martingale collar as the secondary point of connection. Look for a harness with both a front and a back clip that doesn’t restrict movement or rub under the front legs. If your dog is a severe flight risk and you must bring her out in public, there are “spook-proof harnesses” with two belly bands instead of the single standard belly band. It is of critical importance that all straps are adjusted for maximum comfort and safety. You may have to try out several harnesses before settling on one that is most comfortable (and safest ) for your dog’s unique anatomy.

A martingale collar is the second piece of recommended equipment. This type of collar tightens just slightly under pressure so your dog generally can’t back out of it in a panic, as she may able to do in a standard buckle collar. Ideally, your dog would never have pressure on her neck and throat, but if she is in flight mode, the limited amount of restriction offered by a martingale collar can help the equipment stay on so you can get her to safety. Martingale collars can be ordered with no buckle (or release) or with quick release. I prefer a quick release in case my dog ever needs the collar removed fast in an emergency. I also recommend a fabric loop with a D ring, as opposed to a chain loop. The chain loop can catch the fur and delicate skin under the neck.

Any piece of equipment is only as good as its fit. It is critical that you measure your dog to get the correct size harness and collar, then take the time to adjust it so the fit is snug and comfortable, following the manufacturer’s guidelines. A periodic review of the fit is important because, over time, straps inevitably work loose.

I do not ever recommend a slip collar, chain collar or prong collar, or any other piece of equipment that has the potential to cause pain and fear. I also do not use the harness, martingale, or any other methods to deliver physical corrections.

Two Points of Connection

A leash attached to the harness and a second leash attached to the martingale collar is certainly a good option for a two-point connection, but handling two leashes can be cumbersome, and the leashes often twist around each other or wrap around your dog. I personally use a clip loop strap with the loop attached to the leash and the clip attached to the collar. I then attach the leash to the harness. But there are many (more) elegant and minimal ways to achieve two points of connection, and photos are worth a thousand words.

XO Dog Community member Wendy Harmening, who owns Green Mountain Mutts, graciously offered to allow me to use photos and descriptions of some other ways to achieve two points of connection.

Leash Backup Straps / Leash Safety Straps

These are designed to connect either between the leash and a martingale collar OR between the front of the harness and the collar (when the leash is connected to the back of a harness). The downside to this style is that if your dog likes to “spin”, the leash and coupler may become tangled. I use a version of this setup and find it works well, but my dogs tend not to spin. I have had the clip end of my leash open unexpectedly, and the secondary strap attached to the martingale saved me from a runaway dog.

Leash Splitter/Leash Coupler

In either a fixed length or an adjustable length option (as shown). These allow you to clip into both the harness and the collar and use a single leash, so it allows the dog to “spin” without tangling everything up (which is definitely an issue with two leashes!).

Leashes

A good nylon, leather, or biothane leash with reinforced stitching at the handle and clip end, as well as a sturdy metal clip round out the equipment you’ll want to invest in. Regardless of the material, take into account how the handle feels in your hand because you’ll be spending many happy hours with it in your grasp. Match the diameter or width of the leash to the size of your dog.

Neither you nor your dog should be constrained by a short leash. A 6’ leash is fairly standard, but a 10’, 15’, or 20’ leash or more can work really well for giving your XO dog more freedom to explore. As long as you can quickly coil it in your hand if you need to call your dog back to you, leash length is up to you. You may even find that since your dog has more choices, she is less likely to surge forward.

I use a 15’ leash when we walk in the forest or in unpopulated places, and a 25’ or 50’ leash in open fields.

Two Words About Flexi Leashes

Please don’t.

In all seriousness, there are many reasons not to use flexi leashes. Here a just a few:

Keeps tension on the harness or collar, undoing all the work you’ve put into loose leash walking
Causes physical restriction to the neck and windpipe or chest and back
Can easily tangle around poles, trees, etc.
Hard to see and avoid by oncoming bikes or runners
If dropped, the plastic case bouncing on the ground can scare your dog into running away
Can easily tangle around your dog and approaching dog or human
Will cause severe rope burn if you put your hand on the leash as it coils or uncoils

New Equipment? No Problem

Any new equipment should be introduced slowly. Don’t just slip on the harness and martingale, then head out the door and hope for the best. These videos show the best way to slowly condition your dog to wear (and love!) new equipment: