Meeting a shy shelter dog for the first time is a lot like being set up on a blind date. I usually have a little information beforehand, but until I lay eyes on the dog, I really have no idea if the encounter will be successful or not. Often, my new fearful friend will be huddled on his bed in the furthest corner of the kennel, head down, eyes averted, frozen in place. In order to establish a lasting relationship, the first order of business is to get the dog to trust that I will not force him to do anything he does not voluntarily choose to do. Just as it’s generally a bad idea to think about what engagement ring you’ll choose and how many children you’re planning to have while greeting a blind date for the first time, I’m not thinking about putting a collar on the dog, leashing him up or even luring him towards me; I initially have no other agenda except to “be” with him.
Depending on the type of kennel, I may start outside, or go just inside the enclosure. I do not approach the dog, but rather squash myself down as far away as I can get from him. To stack the odds in my favor, I make sure that I have plenty of very tasty, small, smelly treats of different types that I can access easily, without too much extraneous movement on my part. I orient myself away from the dog (as long as I can keep safe by doing so), take care not to stare at him or push into his personal space, and then I wait. I wait as long as it takes for the dog to sigh, shift his position or turn his head even the tiniest bit, then I gently throw a treat onto his bed. I’m looking for any excuse to give treats, so if he moves even an eyelash, he gets something delicious.
A fearful dog can be so overcome with anxiety that he mentally cannot access the parts of his brain that coordinate movement; he is literally frozen with fear. Setting up a routine to help him anticipate what comes next (talking softly while opening kennel door, squatting down in the same position, throwing treats without coming closer) and not asking for more than he can give (by pushing into his space or reaching out to touch him), allows him over time to process information on his terms and start thinking instead of reacting.
Based on studies showing that dogs retain new information better if they are allowed time for processing, in addition to time constraints and the protestations of my cramped legs, I usually spend only about fifteen minutes at a time with a new dog. Until the dog is eagerly meeting me at the front of the kennel, every subsequent session starts the same way: I check my breathing and energy level, make sure that I have no equipment on me that will be noisy or distracting, and greet the dog very quietly as I slip into his run. I squat down in the same spot every time, and wait for any tiny movement on his part, then the treat bar opens. If the dog sniffs at the treat on his bed, I throw the next in a slightly different position (still close to him) so he moves in a slightly different direction.
My ultimate goal is to get the dog from frozen to moving, even if initially it is just to sniff the treats at his feet. It’s not critical that he eat the treats in front of me (yet), but I want him to be able to make the choice to voluntarily move from his fearful posture. I will not ask him or force him to do anything more than he is able to offer on his own, and at no point do I reach out to make physical contact with him.
Now might be a good time to discuss a common assumption among many dog lovers: if we can just pet the dog, he will be comforted by our touch and proximity and learn to trust that we are not to be feared. I, however, disagree. I feel very strongly that in order build a bond of trust, the dog must choose to initiate contact and he must be allowed to end that contact on his terms. Yes, it’s hard to keep my hands to myself when I see a dog suffering, but the reality is that I have no idea if my touch will be taken as I intended, or if it will be perceived as something to be endured, or worse yet, as a threat.
It may happen quickly or it may take several weeks, but once the routine is established, the dog should start getting up and eagerly looking for the treats thrown to him, around him and behind him. Sometimes, the dog will approach of his own accord; that’s GREAT, but I still don’t reach out to pet the dog! Instead, I place a treat in my hand and rest my hand, palm up, on the ground away from my side. If the dog takes the treat, I gently throw the next one away, to increase the dog’s distance from me and to allow the dog to choose to come closer, or remain further back. Either way, I’m allowing him to decide, which sends him a very, very powerful message that he has control over his environment, possibly for the first time since he’s been in the shelter system.
Next week we’ll talk about a modified version of hide and seek to further engage a fearful dog’s curiosity and build his confidence, without him having to leave the comfort of his bed.
Photo Credit: Shutterstock / Frankie’s
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